Eric: This dish is extremely light, full of flavor, and, for the health-conscious in the crowd, practically foolproof. Try it with halibut, red snapper, or skate.

Maguy: This black bass is great for dieters. The ginger and coriander are so flavorful, you don't feel deprived eating it. I've noticed Americans like pasta when they're counting calories; I'll take this dish any day.

1 (4-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into very fine julienne

20 small scallions

1 lemon

6 cups nage

4 (6-ounce) pieces of black bass fillet, skin on

Fine sea salt, to taste

Freshly ground white pepper, to taste

1 ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh coriander leaves

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:

One 14-by-10-inch flame-proof roasting pan

4 large, deep dinner plates

1. Preheat the oven to 550 degrees. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil. Blanch the ginger until crisp-tender, about 2-1/2 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Drain again and set aside.

2. Trim the scallions, cutting the green part off 8 inches from the root end. Peel off and discard the outer layer. Make 2 lengthwise cuts through the green parts and wash well. Set aside. Use a paring knife to cut off all the peel and pith from the lemon. Cut the sections out from between the membranes. Cut the lemon sections across into 1/4-inch pieces. Set aside

3. Bring 3 cups of the nage to a boil. Cut 5 slits across the skin of each bass fillet and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the bass in the roasting pan. Pour the boiling nage over the bass, put in the oven, and cook for 3 to 3-1/2 minutes, until a metal skewer inserted into the center of the fish for 5 seconds feels warm when touched to your lips.

4. Meanwhile, bring the remaining 3 cups of nage to a boil in a saucepan. Use a spatula to transfer the bass to plates. Put the roasting pan over high heat and bring the nage to a boil. Add the scallions and cook for 2 minutes.

5. Pour the boiling nage from the saucepan over the bass. Scatter the ginger over and around the fish. Arrange the scallions over the bass and sprinkle the lemon, tomato, and corriander around it. Serve immediately.